The hike up to the summit was truly grueling but
the view from the top was spectacular and definitely worth the aching
legs.
Volcan Turrialba is one of the highest volcanoes
in Costa Rica, at some 3,300 meters
(over 10,000 feet). It last erupted during the 1860s and is currently
dormant, though there is a great deal of fumarole activity around
two of its three summit craters. A third crater, on the eastern
rim, is the oldest, and now contains a marshy
lake. Towering over the central highlands of Costa Rica,
Turrialba faces the capital city of San Jose from its west side,
while the Caribbean Seacoast can be seen from the east side of the
summit.
The flanks of Turrialba, an immense mountain, are covered at the
uppermost reaches with lush tropical cloud forest, while the
mid- and lower-elevation flanks are home to extensive agriculture,
the dark and rich volcanic soils providing excellent farmland and
forage to dairy cattle. A single, tortuous
dirt road switches back and forth up the west flank from
the populated valley floor below, and this route leads to the Turrialba
volcanic national park and natural reserve. The summit's crater
rims are reached via a number of rugged trails by which visitors
hiking in from the roadhead may descend into the yawning craters
themselves. This was the final destination of our scientific party
during the first full day of sampling activity planned for this
Volcano Expedition.
After an exhausting, two-hour
hike up the mountain and into the craters, Dr. Hilton and
his multinational
group of scientists and journalists began taking samples
of fumarole gases. Hilton reports:
We looked down into the central crater and wondered
how to get down there. Guillermo led the way along a tenuous
path along the crater rim until a route to the central crater
opened up. It took about half an hour to get down there, and
we were greeted by the familiar whiff of sulphur dioxide a characteristic
gas emanated from volcanoes, and a dangerous
one if too much is inhaled. It came from a plethora
of mildly-venting fumaroles lined up on terraces along the crater
wall. We had our first target and we sampled these vents using
our evacuated flasks.
However, further up the crater wall beyond a
saddleback separating the west and central craters, there were indications
of additional fumaroles that were even more active. Toby took
the lead in scurrying up there, and was rewarded by discovering
a large
field of fumaroles venting vigorously at about 90oC
the boiling temperature of water at the altitude of Turrialba (10,000+
feet). Alison joined Toby in the haze of the fumarole field
and they duly collected a number of samples. Fortunately,
Toby's Christmas gift of walkie-talkies allowed us to keep in touch
with him and Alison the whole time even though they disappeared
from view.
Finally Guillermo pointed us to some dark volcanic
bombs which were thrown out of the crater during the last eruption
of this sleeping giant 135 years ago. The bombs contained
tiny green crystals of olivine which trapped the volatiles in their
mineral structure. Seeing the products from the last eruption
ended a memorable day on Turrialba and though our legs were shaking
all the way down the volcano we will remember the awesome fumaroles
and look forward to getting these samples back to the lab.
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