Photo courtesy Michael Smith
"Yesterday, was a walk in the park compared
to today."
Volcan Irazu, at an elevation of 3,400 meters
(about 11,100 feet), is the highest volcano in Costa
Rica. It
last erupted in 1963, coincidentally during U.S. President
Kennedy's historic visit to the nearby capital of San Jose. The
presidential entourage was showered with ash,
as was the entire city's population, which subsequently suffered
from a number of year's activity. The hazards of Irazu's proximity
to one of Central America's principal population centers soon
led to a movement toward mitigation. Solutions were proposed
ranging from science to science fiction. One proposal was the use
of an atomic bomb to fight back at the erupting mountain. Another
proposed flooding the crater with water, thereby extinguishing the
fire within. Obviously, little was understood at the time by proponents
of this ambitious scheme about the power of the Earth's primordial
forces. A third proposal was to drill a tunnel into the offending
mountain in an attempt to drain it of its power. When none
of these preposterous schemes proved tractable, prayer was a last
resort. But, as volcanoes are wont to do, Irazu entered a period
of dormancy that continues to this day. However, dormancy is a relative
concept, as today's field report by Scripps graduate student Alison
Shaw attests:
Yesterday was a walk in
the park compared to today. At a certain
point I debated whether the samples were really worth it.
We started our trek through the cloud forest along a nicely marked
path and then scrambled up the cliff face to begin our journey across
the so-called "Ridge of Death." Upon reaching the ridge,
with cliffs on both sides, to the left we could see an emerald green
lake about 200 meters below in Irazu's crater, and to the right
there were fresh landslides. Our guide's words of caution were:
"Be careful and don't walk too closely together, as anything
can trigger a landslide."
In the crater lake bubbling
springs were visible; however, these gases could only be sampled
by rappelling down the cliff and boating over to the site. This
may be an option for a future expedition.
We scrambled down the back of the volcano in
search of fumarole sites. A landslide in 1996 made these sites less
accessible. After two hours climbing up, down, and sideways over
slippery gullies
and ridges, we came upon a large crack in the outer wall
of the volcano. I could hear the fumaroles roaring from the crack
before I could actually see them. Bright yellow sulphur deposits
rimmed the crack and gas was pouring out. We managed to take several
gas samples and one fluid sample. Success!
As you can probably imagine, the hike back up
to the crater rim was even more tortuous. And all this time, I was
wondering what Dave
was up to..
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